In this blog post, we’ll explore what cashmere—a quintessential luxury winter fabric—actually is, examine its functionality and characteristics based on blend ratios, and cover its main uses and proper care.
What Kind of Fiber Is Cashmere?
Cashmere fiber, derived from the fur of the cashmere goat, is one of the premier materials for alleviating the hardships of a cold winter. While many stylish and casual down jackets are available these days, it’s true that for those who prioritize a polished look, getting through the winter with just a down jacket isn’t always easy. On the other hand, coats containing cashmere fibers provide warmth while maintaining a refined silhouette, allowing you to look stylish even in winter. High-end coats sold in department stores often contain cashmere fibers. Due to cashmere’s rarity and high price, issues regarding product labeling and actual content have arisen in the past. In fact, a 2014 test conducted by the Korea Consumer Agency on select men’s coats revealed that among products labeled “100% cashmere,” the actual cashmere content was only 16.5% for Townsend, 84.9% for Basso, and 90.2% for Lenoma. Since the characteristics and price of a product can vary depending on the cashmere content, purchasing a product without a thorough understanding of cashmere may lead to overlooking the discrepancy between the label and the actual quality. Therefore, we will examine, in order, what cashmere fiber is, what functional properties it possesses, its blend ratios and uses, and how it should be cared for.
Cashmere refers to the fine, soft undercoat of the cashmere goat. A goat’s coat consists of thick, coarse, long guard hairs and the soft undercoat beneath them; cashmere is the fiber obtained by harvesting this undercoat and removing the coarse guard hairs. Currently, the main production areas are China and Mongolia, though it is also produced in Central Asia and high-altitude regions such as Afghanistan and Iran. The amount of undercoat that can be obtained from a single cashmere goat is not large. On average, about 100–200 grams of undercoat can be harvested from one goat, though this varies depending on production conditions. In other words, making a single cashmere coat may require fibers obtained from a significant number of goats.
What are the characteristics of fine, soft cashmere?
When examining cashmere fibers, the undercoat is very fine and soft, and is known to be more delicate than ordinary wool. Cashmere is generally defined as fine undercoat fibers with an average diameter of 19 microns or less, and it is used as a textile fiber after the coarse outer coat is removed. Furthermore, the fine structure and crimp of the fibers contribute to cashmere’s distinctive softness and thermal insulation. Since it is essentially a fiber derived from an animal’s undercoat, it offers excellent thermal insulation, much like wool, and its lightness and softness allow it to provide warmth even in thin garments. The delicacy of cashmere fibers also contributes to its luxurious appearance and feel. When assessing quality, it is necessary to consider not only the fineness of the fibers but also various other characteristics, such as length and uniformity. Generally, the finer the fibers, the easier it is to achieve a soft feel and a delicate surface texture, while an appropriately long fiber length is advantageous for improving spinability and product quality.
Because of these characteristics, cashmere is often referred to as the “jewel of fibers.” In particular, its lightness, warmth, and soft texture are key reasons why cashmere has long been cherished as a premium clothing material. However, not all products labeled as cashmere are of the same quality. Even among cashmere products, the texture, durability, and appearance can vary depending on factors such as fiber thickness and length, raw material quality, and the spinning, knitting, and weaving processes.
What Changes Depending on the Cashmere Blend Ratio?
Cashmere products are made with a wide range of blend ratios, from those containing as little as 10% cashmere to 100% cashmere products. Various fibers, including high-quality Merino wool, as well as wool, silk, and cotton, can be used as blending partners with cashmere. Since the product’s texture, appearance, functional characteristics, and price can vary depending on the cashmere content, it is important to check the actual fiber content rather than simply looking for the word “cashmere” when purchasing a product. While products containing only a small amount of cashmere may possess some of its characteristics, a higher cashmere content does not necessarily guarantee that the product is superior in every respect. This is because the quality of the raw materials, the manufacturing process, and the combination with other fibers also affect the product’s performance.
Cashmere is used in a wide variety of products, including sweaters, mufflers, hats, shawls, gloves, socks, coats, scarves, and blankets. It is widely used in a broad range of products—from knitwear and scarves that come into direct contact with the skin, where a soft feel is essential, to coats that require a lightweight, warm, and elegant appearance. Therefore, when purchasing cashmere products, it is advisable to consider the exact blend ratio, the product’s intended use, and the characteristics of the material, rather than judging the price based solely on the fact that it “contains cashmere.” In fact, accurately labeling the cashmere content is a crucial criterion for consumers to make informed decisions, and many countries have established regulations to prevent misleading labels that use the term “cashmere” while creating confusion about the actual fiber content.
How should cashmere be cared for?
As we’ve seen, cashmere—often called the “jewel of fibers”—offers many advantages. However, because the fibers are fine and delicate, pilling can occur due to friction, and proper care is necessary to maintain the product’s shape and appearance. In particular, there is no general rule stating that 100% cashmere products must be limited to a specific wearing time, such as “two hours.” The key is to avoid concentrating friction on specific areas through prolonged, repeated wear and to care for the item by allowing it time to rest in accordance with its characteristics. Even with standard cashmere coats or knitwear, rather than wearing them consecutively every day, it helps extend the product’s lifespan to adjust the shape after each wear and allow it to air out thoroughly. Additionally, since cashmere is susceptible to friction, special care must be taken with areas that repeatedly rub against bag straps or other garments. When washing, always check the product’s care label first. Not all wool products, including cashmere, require dry cleaning; depending on the item, some can be hand-washed or machine-washed. If the care label specifies “dry clean only,” take the item to a professional dry cleaner; for items suitable for hand washing, use lukewarm water and a mild detergent, and avoid rubbing vigorously or wringing it out.
After washing, it is recommended to gently reshape the garment and lay it flat to dry. When storing, it is important to ensure the item is thoroughly dry and kept in a well-ventilated area to prevent moisture buildup.
What should you look for to choose cashmere more wisely?
Although it has the drawback of being relatively expensive because it is a natural fiber derived from animal hair, cashmere continues to be consistently loved by consumers for its excellent properties: it is lightweight, warm, soft to the touch, and has a luxurious appearance. Furthermore, while advancements in textile technology have led to the development of various techniques aimed at replicating the feel and appearance of natural materials, cashmere itself remains a natural animal fiber with its own unique characteristics. Therefore, cashmere is likely to continue being used as a high-end fashion material that keeps you warm while keeping you stylish. When choosing a coat this winter, rather than being swayed by the claim that it contains cashmere and blindly paying a high price, it would be a wiser shopping decision to carefully examine the blend ratio, the other fibers used, and the product’s care instructions before making a purchase. In particular, a high price does not necessarily guarantee high quality, so it’s important to verify the labeled content percentage, the product’s intended use, and the characteristics of the material. As always, why not embrace cashmere this coming winter to enjoy both style and warmth?
