In this blog post, I’ll share the majesty of nature and the joy of hiking I experienced during my winter traverse of Seoraksan, as well as the moving experience of witnessing the first sunrise of the New Year.
These days, with hiking culture becoming so widespread, it’s easy to see people climbing mountains just a short distance outside the city. However, I believe the best way to truly experience the mountains is to climb a peak over 1,500 meters above sea level yourself. Generally, people visit the mountains in summer to seek out cool valleys and in fall to admire the vibrant autumn foliage. So, winter hiking might feel somewhat unfamiliar. Yet, few experiences are as challenging and exhilarating as climbing a mountain while enduring the bitter cold and biting winds. The moment you gaze down at the snow-capped winter peaks and take in the sweeping panorama, a sense of refreshment and awe washes over you—one that’s hard to put into words.
On December 31, 2011, I began my climb up Seoraksan—a hike that would remain a historic one for me as a hiking enthusiast. Seoraksan offers a variety of trails suited to different skill levels, and thanks to its outstanding natural scenery, it is beloved by everyone from beginners to seasoned mountaineers. In particular, Daecheongbong Peak (1,708 meters above sea level), the highest peak on Seoraksan, has long been regarded as one of South Korea’s premier spots for watching the sunrise. Our group set out for Seoraksan, fully prepared to welcome the hopeful New Year of 2012 from the summit.
We arrived at Seoraksan National Park early in the morning by bus to find that dozens of centimeters of snow had fallen overnight, transforming the entire world into a pure white landscape. The Hangyeollyeong Trail we had planned to take was closed to hikers because snow removal had not yet been completed, so we hurriedly changed our plans and decided to ascend via the Osaek Trail in the South Seorak area. Although we were flustered that our plans had gone awry right from the start, we took comfort in the fact that the hiking distance and estimated time had been reduced, and we began our hike.
In hiking, a shorter distance often means a steeper gradient. The originally planned Hangyeol-ryeong Trail starts at an elevation of about 1,000 meters, so steep sections account for less than half of the entire route. In contrast, the Osaek Trail starts at around 500 meters above sea level and is the shortest route to the summit, so steep ascents continued throughout the hike. Although it was a grueling hike with not a single downhill section, we didn’t need to rush to the summit, so we were able to enjoy the hike at a leisurely pace, taking plenty of breaks and snapping photos along the way.
Whenever we paused to look up at the sky, a cloudless, deep-blue sky welcomed us. As we gained altitude, even more majestic mountain peaks unfolded before our eyes, and my heart fluttered with the feeling that we were venturing deeper and deeper into the embrace of Seorak. As we neared the summit, the snow-capped ridges of Jungcheongbong and Daecheongbong came into view. The scenery, which looked as if an ink-wash painting had been unfurled before our eyes, was an unforgettable spectacle.
After a long 4-hour-and-30-minute hike, we finally arrived at our final destination, the Jungcheong Shelter. Located about 700 meters from Daecheong Peak, the Jungcheong Shelter is the highest-altitude mountain shelter in South Korea, and many hikers spend the night there to watch the sunrise over Daecheong Peak. After unpacking our gear, we headed straight to the kitchen area to prepare dinner. The kitchen was bustling with people taking out the food they’d brought to prepare their meals. We, too, took out the pork belly and ramen we’d ambitiously prepared and began our dinner.
The taste of pork belly grilled at an elevation of over 1,600 meters was simply fantastic. It felt as though all the energy we’d expended climbing the mountain for 4 hours and 30 minutes had been instantly replenished. Even the ramen, which I usually ate without a second thought, tasted more special and delicious than ever when eaten at the mountain lodge. Having etched this unforgettable memory into our hearts, we went to bed early, looking forward to another moving experience the next day.
On the second day, I was awakened by the sounds of people bustling about, preparing to watch the sunrise. We, too, hurriedly ate breakfast and got ready to head outside to catch the sunrise around 7:40 a.m. Although the distance to Daecheongbong Peak was only about 700 meters, the climb to the summit felt longer than expected due to the fatigue accumulated from the previous day’s hike and our bodies that hadn’t fully recovered yet. Anxious that we might miss the sunrise, we hurried through the final steps, and the very moment we set foot on the summit, the first sun of 2012 appeared above the horizon as if by magic.
Thanks to the clear, cloudless sky, I was able to capture a vivid photo of the round sun. Watching the sunrise from the mountaintop was so deeply moving that it’s hard to put into words. Moreover, the fact that I was welcoming the first day of the New Year at the summit of Seoraksan added a special significance all on its own. Even as a biting, cutting wind blew, our group stood there in silence for a while, gazing only at the rising sun. At the summit, there were not only us but over 100 people gathered, each making their own New Year’s wishes. I, too, prayed earnestly for a good outcome on the civil service exam I would be taking that year. Even now, that sunrise remains one of the most enduring memories among my countless hiking experiences.
For the descent, we chose the Biseondae Trail—a significant deviation from our original plan—to see scenery different from the way up. Like the Hangyeol-ryeong Trail, the Biseondae Trail was also covered in deep snow, but unlike the ascent, it was quite fun to crunch through the snow on the way down. The Biseondae Trail is widely known for its beautiful scenery among the many hiking trails on Seoraksan. Along both sides of the path winding through the valley, massive peaks of jagged rocks stretched endlessly, and I couldn’t stop marveling at the spectacular view unfolding before my eyes.
The scenery was so majestic that I wondered if such a landscape even existed in South Korea; it reminded me of the Grand Canyon in the American West. Between the sheer cliffs on either side, emerald-green stream water flowed crystal-clear, offering a crisp, refreshing charm distinct from the coolness felt in summer valleys. After continuing our descent for about five hours, we arrived at the entrance to Seorak-dong, which connects to Sokcho. From there, we took a bus departing from Sokcho back to Seoul, bringing our two-day, one-night winter traverse of Mount Seorak to a close.
The winter traverse of Mount Seorak was a challenging hike that required us to endure bitter cold and physical strain. However, the beautiful snowy scenery, the majestic ridges, the special night spent at the mountain lodge, and the moving experience of the first sunrise of the New Year left us with precious memories that cannot be replaced by anything else. While winter mountains are by no means an easy challenge, I was reminded once again that if you tackle them with thorough preparation and by following safety guidelines, they are a special place where you can encounter the true beauty of nature—an experience that is hard to find in other seasons.
